Sunday, August 26, 2007

Owner's Feedback on ST1300/STX1300 Pan European

People have sent me PM (private mails) and emails asking me questions about ST1300/STX1300 Pan European since nothing beats asking the owner versus reading bike magazine reviews.

The questions so far touched on the Pan's:
- Size
- Weight

- Handling
- Power

- Reliability



I will share with you some of the common concerns about the Pan. It would help to de-mystify the Pan, correct some myths and maybe add some of my personal bits of observation.

Reader beware. Rest of this article is rather technical and does not contain any pictures.
Go brew yourselve a nice cup of coffee and then start reading.


Size and Weight

Someone sent me this question:

"How tall are you?
Hi endless, I have been reading yur blog for the past yeat and i must say i enjoyed it very much. Therefore i was rather surprised when i found out you have swapped your beloved "Frost" for the STX 1300. I was also an ex owner of a Fazer1000 before i loved its power, especially on the Malaysia's North South Highway. I was also thinking of getting an STX in the future but i worry the bike may be too heavy and tall for me. I am only about 1.7m and weigh less than 65kg. Do you mind telling me your height and also whether the STX is a shit to push around? Sorry for not asking in the forum but i very paiseh. Maybe yu can mention this little detail in your blog so that others may have the courage to try the STX."

A very good question. And my response was:

I am like you, but even smaller and thinner.
I am 1.7 m and I weigh a featherly 56kg!

The ST13, once on the move on it's own power, even at half-clutch first gear, is really amazingly agile. Go see the youtube.com ST1300 Police training videoes. If you close your eyes, you would feel like u r riding a Honda Super4.

Pushing the ST13 around when parking into and out of a lot needs a bit of getting used to from a Fazer. Yes, the ST13 initially feels solid and heavy. But it is all a matter of adjustment and getting used to it. Give yourself one month and you will have no trouble afterall.

The trick is really to keep the bike upright when pushing the bike around. Once the bike is upright, it's weight magically disappears and it is a doodle to push around. Second trick is to use your body weight and legs to assist you rather than use your arms.

So you see all the uncles, ah peks and ah gongs riding ST1100, if they can handle even the heavier ST1100, so can you handle the lighter ST1300!

Go Loois Motor and see Meng Tong the chief mechanic. He is even smaller than me. And he wheels my ST13 around like a scrambler in the workshop.



Next question:
How about when you are riding the ST1300? Does it feel heavy? Do you need to be tall to ride it? Do you need to be a big and strong fella like the ang mohs to ride it?


You don't need to be tall and strong to ride the ST1300.

The ST1300 comes with an adjustable seat that can go to three height positions, even at my height, I used the middle setting. At this setting, I half tip-toed with both feet or I can flat foot with one foot on the ground.


Once the bike starts moving, the ST1300 feels surprisingly nimble. I could do tighter U-turns on the ST1300 than on my Fazer1000. I could do one lane wide U-turns on the ST1300. BMWs, FJRs, sports bikes take that!



Does it take a lot of effort to make the ST1300 corner or lean over? Is the ST1300 very slow to lean over?

This is THE strength of the ST1300, to me. It is amazingly agile, nimble and flickable. It takes little effort to flick the ST1300 to its side.

I especially like the ST1300's riding position. The ST1300 has a modern sports bike upfront position, but with higher bars and broader foamier seat. You sit closer to the front wheel. So you have better feel and greater confidence of the bike. Therefore, the ST1300 has a short, but broad fuel tank. In contrast, you sit further back on the FJR and Fazer1000.

The ST1300's sitting position encourages you to adopt a MotoGP stance when turning agressively. Your head low over the brake-reservoir and half your bum sliding out.

When I first got the ST1300, I found myself doing some of my usual corners at +10kmh faster with little effort, than when going hard on my Fazer1000. This shows you how well the ST1300 can corner.

Perhaps, one slight disadvantage of the ST1300 is that it needs to lean over more, hence has lesser ground clearance compared to other lighter bikes.

Many touring bikes make the riders prefer to ride long straight roads. The ST1300 is one bike that makes you actually prefer to ride twisty roads than straight roads! This cornering-fun factor is definitely not found in ST1100. What a different animal the ST1300 is from its predecessor!

I would tell you one less commonly known trait of the ST1300. Honda designed the ST1300 so eager to corner that it sacrificed some straight-line stability at high speeds.

At high speeds say >180kmh, the ST1300 starts to feel a little nervous and you need to concentrate a bit on going straight. Just understand that the bike is designed to turn with the minimal effort. The problem is that at high speeds, the bike still wants to tip over. So you would find going straight and fast on a slower steering bike more relaxing, assuring and planted (FJR?). It is not anything wrong with the ST1300 (or FJR). It is just a double-edge sword thing.

This side effect can be made more pronounced if an unsuspecting Pan rider tries to ride at >200kmh with a fully raised windshield! The Pan is one of the few bike that has a windshield (at its highest position) that can deflect windblast completely above the rider's head, like the Goldwing. To do that, the Pan's windshield got to be really tall. BTW, the Pan's windshield has a greater adjustable range compared to FJR. Just see how tall the front fairing of the Pan, compared to FJR.




Brakes

I read many times in bike magazines that the bike editors dislike the ST1300's linked brakes and claiming they can stop better themselves if they handle the front and rear brakes manually themselves.

The ST1300's linked brakes mean that the front and rear brakes are actuated even when you squeeze only the front brakes. It is just that the bike moderate the brake distribution effort itself.

And if you know me, I am really picky on a bike's brake.
I believe in the saying that, "The quickest bike is the bike that can stop faster."
You can have all the horsepower in the world, but if your bikes can't stop quickly, you would be reluctant to appy the horsepower isn't it? I am sure the Suzuki Hayabusa owners understand what I mean


Picky as I am on a bike's brake, so it is a surprise that I am now a fan of the ST1300's linked brakes.

The linked brakes is really great and effective in halting the ST1300. Much more effective than you can do it yourself if you separate the front and rear brakes. More than once, I thank the linked brakes for stopping the ST1300 quickly without any drama. Yes, the feel is different from that of a sportsbike. But you can still feel the bike.

The linked brakes is really bringing the advantage of a car to a bike. In cars such as Evolution, WRX and F1 cars, you just need to stamp on one brake pedal and the car stops. You don't need to have two brake pedals. So why can't we have that on a bike?

Yes, we can. So you find it on Honda's ST1300, BlackBird and VFR.
Don't believe the bike journalists on this one.


Power

This is an interesting one. Because, this seems to be the one that most people use to decide between the Pan and the FJR.

Do you know that sometimes an engine can "feel" powerful yet it doesn't make you go faster?
In contrast, there are engines that don't "feel" fast, but you just get shocked at the high readings when you look down at the speedometer. The ST1300 is like that. I will explain in a moment.

The ST1300 has a V-4 engine layout. The commonly known advantage of a V-4 layout is lower CG compard to inline layout. This, coupled with Honda's mass centralisation design philosophy, sharp steering rake, a short wheelbase, little trail, make the ST1300 so eager to steer. The disadvantage of V-4 layout is higher cost of production => higher price tag.

Another lesser known thing is that I suspect that Honda designed the ST1300's 4 cylinder engine fire and feel like a twin.

Why would Honda make a 4-cylinder fire like a two-cylinder engine?

The rider can go faster on such a engine.

Have you ridden a twin before? It feels so unintimidating when you turn the throttle whether going straight or when exiting the corner. But on any 1,000cc inline-4 bike, the pull of the engine is so constant and so fierce, that psychologically, it makes the rider slower to apply the power of the engine. There is also real science behind it that explains why a two-cylinder engine can allow the tyre to grip the tarmac better than a 4-cylinder engine. But I don't fully get it so I can't explain that here. Anyhow, just know that the RCV V-5 fires like a twin! And I believe so does the ST1300.

Another characteristic of the ST1300's engine is that it is a flat-torque engine. There is horsepower and there is torque. You don't understand the difference, you just go and wiki yourself.

The ST1300's flat-torque engine delivers more or less constant torque throughout the rpm range. So the bike gets pulled along at the same rate on the same gear even as the rev goes up. This results in the rider "feeling" not much pull, and the bike doesn't feel fast.

The other effect of flat-torque engine is such engines are very willing and easy to rev. So the ST1300 is surprisingly likes to rev. You can easily make use of the full rpm range of the ST1300 (max hp at 8k rpm) and hence it's full 113 hp. I personally observed that for any road bike, 100 hp is all you need to go fast on the road.

Honda likes to designed engines with flat torque. This is why the CBR1000/CBR600 feel more friendly and less threatening than the non-flat torque engines of Kawasakis ZX-10/ ZX-6.

Non-flat torque engines have a lump or mountain shape in their torque curve. The Fazer1000 has such type of torque curve. Maybe the FJR too. As the rev climb, you start to climb up the torque curve. This is called "volumatric efficiency" meaning the bike starts to get more and more efficient. The rider starts to feel the "pull" of the bike.

The result of engines with a torque curve is that the rider has a greater sensation of the bike is going fast compared to flat torque engines. The engine thus make the bike feel more "sporty". The disadvantages is that this "greater pull" sensation requires the rider to be more daring and to have bigger balls in applying the throttle to go fast, as compared to the rider on a flat torque engine who doesn't get intimdated by such a sensation.


Given that the ST1300 has a flat-torque engine that mimicks a twin-engine, a windshield that is very good at deflecting windblast, shaft-driven meaning more weight and less responsiveness than a chain-driven engine, the net result is that riding on the ST1300, the rider seldom feels like he is going fast whether he is going straight or doing a corner until very high speeds (>180kmh).

This could be why the FJR is described to feel more sporty than the ST1300.

Note that so far, I used the phrase the rider feels. In reality, the ST1300 is going really very very fast. I get shocked at seeing how fast ST1300 rider rides on the road.

Therefore, I am also not surprised when the Bike Magazine described that the ST1300 rider actually goes faster than the FJR rider most of the time for the same rider input.

When I first got the ST1300, I find the speedometer registering 110-120kmh even though I really felt I was riding slower than on my Fazer1000 when it was doing 90kmh. So honestly, I was a bit disappointed when I first got the ST1300 because I couldn't feel it's sportiness. It is after I lowered the windshield by 5 cm (to let in more breeze) and after riding the bike more, that now I can appreciate the ST1300's sportiness. Contact me for the windshield-lowering brace if you are a Pan owner.



Gear Box

The Pan has 5 gears. The gearing makes the ST1300 accelerate well from 50kmh to 200kmh.
In this zone, it would not out accelerate modern sportsbike, but probably could dust or keep pace with most other bikes.

Some people wished the Pan have a higher 6th gear. I don't think so. I think it's gear ratios are fine. If I am asked to change something, maybe I would add a lower first gear to make it 6 gears. The Pan's first gear is rather tall. So it is not great at racing out of the gates from standstill. Honda might have intentionally not made the first gear short as tourers don't need such fast first gear acceleration and it would just add more effort to shift through the gears to get to the tallest gear, given the ST13's strong long-end torque.

The ST13's gearbox is easy and light to shift. The gears do not pop out and you don't miss gears. It is also easy to find neutral on the Pan.

I find the hydraulic clutch needs a bit of effort to depress though (like the BlackBird). I also suspect the Pan has a twin plate clutch design, perhaps to cope with the 1,300 cc torque.



Reliability

The Pan is really a very sophisticated bike. V-4 engine. Windshields that raise and lower at the press of a button. Computer readings that can read anything from outside temperature to on-the-fly fuel consumption to distance countdown to empty tank (I have a story on this). Counter-balancer shaft-driven and whatever bells and whistles.

It didn't help that for its first 3-4 years of production, there were recalls on Pan to fix some design issues. They were mostly small like heat shield, oil plug. But still.

I must say so far, my Pan has been most reliable. Fires up everytime no matter how I rev the tits out of it. And I have done the long trip to Thailand and back and it never crossed my mind throughout the trip that my Pan would give me any problems.

I believe its engine will be most reliable, just as Honda has designed and delivered a very reliable ST1100. But with more parts such as electric motors on the windshield, I would expect an very edged ST1300 would have parts that need replacement, nothing more due to usual wear-and-tear.


Parting Shots

Thanks for sending me questions as we help to share information with everyone who comes here to read about motorcycling. So keep the emails and PMS coming. Keep your questions, comments and even articles coming. You are most welcomed



Saturday, August 04, 2007

Ride to Gerik-Betong (Thailand): How to be a Rebel Soldier



20-22 July 2007


Motorcycle tour to Betong, Thailand, southernmost Thai town. Ipoh, Gerik Highway Route 76, Betong, Communist Tunnel, Bailing Highway Route 77. Bikes: STX1300 Pan European, CBR1100XX BlackBird, Honda Super4.


I was a rebel since young. When I was 6 years old, when I was munching chewing gum, my mother said, "You don't swallow the chewing gum." The next thing was, I got my whole family going on a manhunt trying to look for me, as I was trying to hide from them so I can try to swallow the chewing gum.

When I was 18 years old, my father said, "
You don't go and learn motorcyle, it's dangerous!" I have since clocked over 10 years and hundred of thousands of km of riding.

This time, I want to ride to somewhere different.
There was a recent series of bombings and gruesome beheadings by terrorists in southern Thailand. Many have died. The newspapers are screaming "Don't go to Southern Thailand. It's a dangerous place now."
OK then. Let's ride to southern Thailand. To Betong, the southern most town in the southern state Yala, of Thailand.


Itinerary






















Our route. Red is on the way to Betong. Blue is on the way back to Singapore.




Fri (20/8) :
- 12 pm Set off from Gelah Patah, Malaysia. NorthSouth Highway.
- 6 pm: Arrive at Ipoh, Malaysia. Stayover.
Sat (21/8)
- 7 am: Set off for Route 76, Gerik Highway.
- 12 pm: Malaysia-Thai border.
- 1 pm: Betong, Thailand. Check-in. Half-day to tour Betong.
Sun (22/8)
- 7 am: Set off back to Singapore.
- 8 am: After Malaysia-Thai border, Route 77, Bailing Highway.
- 11 am: NorthSouth highway, Penang back to Gelah Patah, Malaysia.


















3 Bikes: PPlater (Honda Super4); Me (ST1300 Pan European); Spectrum (CBR1100XX BlackBird).



NorthSoth Highway from Gelah Pateh to Ipoh

















When you see the tall vertical rocks, it means you are reaching Ipoh.

It rained during our 1 hour ride from Kuala Lumpur to Ipoh. But behind the large fully-extended screen of the ST1300, I didn't need to wear a raincoat.
Fun watching the water droplets rolling upward off the windscreen.


Our fuel stops along the long journey from Gelah Patah to Ipoh:
- GP
- Ayer Hitam
- Kelok Ayer
- Rawang
- Ipoh.
Each fuel stop is <200km. style="color: rgb(51, 102, 255);">

PPlater is a brave gung-ho young man. Barely months passed his probation P-Plate, he is going to ride to Thailand with us, a distance many other much more seasoned bikers have not been to.

Midway through, at the Kelok Ayer fuel stop, PPlater went, "Oh shit."
"What's up? What's the problem?", I asked.
"I broke my box key (PPlater's Super4 has 2 side hard-boxes). I was turning the key to unlock the left box and the key broke", PPlater said.
"But you have got the spare key right? I reminded you to bring spare keys before the trip", I asked.
"Yes, I did bring spare keys for the bike and the boxes", PPlater said.
"Well, then just use your spare key to open the boxes and problem is solved, isn't it?", I said simply.
PPlater said, "I left my spare key locked inside the right box."

!!!

I figured PPlater is going to have to spend his next 3 days riding and sleeping in the same underwear he is wearing now.


The Ipoh Pomelo Girls

To go to Ipoh town, we exited at the NorthSouth Highway at Exit 137 Simpan Pulai.
At the first T-junction, turn right. Then head straight. This leads to the Ipoh town centre.


4 km in on your right, you will see one of the unique features of Ipoh town, the Pomelo shops.

It is a row of shops. All of them look the same. All of them sell Pomelos.
They appear a uniform row of green filled with Pomelo, until you pull up nex to them.
Then suddenly, like colourful flowers blossoming after a rain, each shop will sprout a couple of young fair girls standing in front of the shop.














See until blur.PPlater standing in front of the Pomelo shops.
So many shops, so many pomelos, so many girls to choose from.
Which one to go for?


















We settled for this shop '888'.
From left, PPlater, Ah Ying, Xian2 Xian2 (sleepy sleepy?), chi-ko pek Spectrum.


I walked past all the 25 Pomelo shops. I noticed the first one-third and second one-third are all manned by young girls like Ah Ying and Xian Xian. The last one-third are manned by aunties and ah gongs and I wonder how they survived against such strong competition.

Almost exactly one year ago, I rode here to Ipoh and to Gerik. You can see it in my August 2006 entry in this blog. I also came here the last time.

Spectrum said, "Let's buy a pomelo and eat back at the hotel."
I said, "That's what you said last year and I ended up bring back the pomelo back to Singapore."

Spectrum said, "Don't worry, if we can't finished in the hotel, we will finished along the Gerik ride tomorrow."
I said, "That's what you said last year too."




















Flashback August, 2006. I was ridding a Fazer with side boxes then.
I carried the pomelo from Ipoh, through Gerik Highway, to Kuantan, back to Singapore.
It was the longest travelling pomelo.



We still went ahead and bought the pomelo and it went into one of the large side boxes of my Vice.


















Present day, 2007. I had to carry the pomelo again.


Ipoh, Excelsior Hotel

Next, we went to look for a hotel to stay in Ipoh.
We chose Excelsior hotel and checked in at 7.30 pm.

One of the reasons was we stayed there in 2006 and it was a fine hotel.
Another reason was we, or more accurately Spectrum, wanted to see the beautiful hotel receptionist.

















Spectrum with the beautiful receptionist who speaks very good English at the Excelsior Hotel of Ipoh, August 2006. See my Aug 2006 entry in this blog.


When we reached the Excelsior Hotel, the first thing we did was to go look for this receptionist.
But there were several female receptionists on duty there and we wouldn't quite sure if one of them is her. And we couldn't exactly remember this beautiful receptionist's name.

Then I said, "Oh! I remembered her name sounds very close to a bad word."
Spectrum enquired, "What name?! What name?! Then we can ask for her."
I searched my rich vocabulary of bad words and cross check with my limited vocabulary of english names.
I said, "Oh, I got it liao! Her name is Nina!" Sounds like Kan-Nina.

We asked one of the receptionists, "We are looking for a Nina, is she still working here?"
The receptionist whom we asked replied, amazingly, "I am Nina."

On one hand, we were overjoyed we found back our Nina. On the other hand, we didn't quite remember our Nina looked like this.

So Spectrum tried to remind our Nina, "Remember us or not? Last year we were here?"
Nina gave a blank look.
Spectrum didn't give up, "We were a bunch of bikers and we took all the brochures in the hotel! Ha ha ha! You remembered?"
Nina shoke her head.
Spectrum was disappointed how could Nina forget us so fast, especially one as handsome as Spectrum.
But we consoled ourselves, oh well, maybe the hotel really had a lot of guests between then and now. It wasn't we were good looking enough. It's just that one year is a long time ago.

Just as we were consoling our bruised ego, one of our bikers back in Singapore sent us a SMS to eagerly enquiring if we found our beautiful reception. The sms went, "So how is Nardia?"


Oh! So our beautiful receptionist wasn't Nina but Nardia!
Our bruised ego from being unremembered recovered immediately!

We asked Nina, where is Nardia?
Nardia has left Excelsior and is now with Emas, the company behind the toll booths of NorthSouth highway.

The next time you are at one of the toll booths along the NorthSouth Highway, help us enquire how to look for Nardia.

Can't blame me for the mix-up ok. I wasn't far off what. Nardia does sound like a bad word: Nin-nah-hia.

















Spectrum trying hard to impress the unsmiley and urh, so different-looking-from-Nardia, Nina.


We asked the hotel to send someone from the hotel maintenance engineering team to help us solve PPlater's locked boxes which contained his clothings and toilet kits.

We waited by PPlater's bike and a while later, one young guy from the team turned up bare-handed without any tool kit and asked us what can he helped us with.
We described our complex dilemma of a locked box with a spare key kept inside the box itself.

The young man looked at the locked box. We expected him to go back inside the hotel to return witha toolbox with some huge screw drivers, jacks, hammers, spanners. Within seconds, before we know it, he pop-opened the locked Givi side box with his bare hands.

We were stunned it was so easy for him to open a locked hard box. After he left, we tried to replicate his move. We soon learnt how to open the box too with our bare hands within 2 seconds. I am not going to put Givi out of business by telling you how here.


Gerik Highway Route 76

We learnt from our past experience that we need to set off early to ride the biking Nirvana, Gerik Highway. We left the hotel at 7.30 am.


















The rocky granite knolls surrounding Ipoh in the morning wee hours.
And we are off to Gerik Highway.


To get to Gerik from Ipoh, first you got to get back to the NorthSouth Highway.


















The most scenic stretch of NorthSouth Highway in Malaysia.
This is not Gerik Highway. This is the NorthSouth Highway outside of Ipoh.
Cooling climate of Ipoh. Nice sweeping roads. Green majestic surrounding mountains.


















Under the Gates of Gerik.
Go through this gate and you will be on your way to biking Nirvana in Malaysia.


















Cool, dry climate and fresh air; Cloud-shrouted mountain in the distance; Greenery all around; Beautiful scenary; Clear, high quality tarmac; low traffic. This is Gerik Highway Route 76.
What more can you ask for?


More breadth-taking scenaries as you ride through...





















































































All these beautiful view is too much for PPlater and he can't hold on.
Ahhhhhh.....such nice scenary in front as you take a good piss, heaven.


More beautiful scenaries as we rode through that are beyong the description of words.
One has to be there to feel and see for yourself.




























































We were there.



















I was there too.



















Interesting traffic light at Gerik town. It's 28 degrees celsius.


















Most people would head eastward, taking Route 4 towards Kuantan.
After Route 76, we proceeded to Route 77.
Route 77 has some nice windy country roads to play on.


















We reached the northern most Malaysian town Pengkalan Hulu.
Beyond this, no more Malaysian town and it would be Thailand territory.


At this petrol kiosk, it was make-or-break decision time for us. We are now so very close to Southern Thailand where there were numerous bombings.

We approached and asked the local Malaysians over there, "Is it safe to cross over to Betong?"

If their advice is No, we will turn back.

The locals said Yes. And we proceeded towards Betong.



















Malaysia Custom.

Stamp passport, return your white card, just like if you were at Malaysia custom returning back to Singapore.




















Then Thai Custom.




















Compared to the high-tech sprawling Singapore custom at second link, the Thai Custom office is very "traditional". Not many travellers. But still lazy queue, queue, stamp, stamp.

Official payment of 2 ringgit or 20 bahbt to Thai custom officer.
Then fill up a vehicle registration form, which you need to keep and return back to the Thai custom on your return trip. This form could be to ensure you are not illegally importing vehicles into Thailand.


As the Thai custom is very "traditional", I found myself getting one signature from one Thai officer, walked another 10 metres to get another signature from another Thai officer. Why can't they all just sit at one place?

I thought Thailand is the land of a thousand smiles. But the lady Thai custom officer who clears our bike is the most unsmiling creature on earth.



Cleared the Thai custom with no difficulties.



















Betong is very near to the Thai border.
Down this brief 10km stretch of windy road and you are there.























Map of Yala province. Betong a town at the south of Yala.


We did not book any hotel in advanced. We just rode around the small Betong town and picked a hotel.

We chose and stayed at Merlin Betong hotel. It's right in the town centre. It also has a sheltered carpark with a security guard. We saw other large touring motorcycles from Malaysia parked there too. It cost each of us S$50 per night. We reached the hotel at 12 pm.

You can also stay at Mandarin Betong. It's a new hotel and looks posh. But it should not be expensive.

There is also Sri Betong Hotel. It looked more dated than Merlin so we did not stay there. But there were also other Malaysian touring motorcycles that parked there.



















Lunch was aweful, except for the always wonderful Tomyam Soup.
One of the famous Betong food is the Betong Chicken cooked in Betong soya souce.
Man, it was the toughest chicken I have ever tasted in my life.
The chicken felt like it was a Muay Thai boxer.
I realised how blesses Singaporeans are with our common Singapore chicken rice.
























Map of Betong town. We stayed at Merlin Hotel.



















In front of the only underpass tunnel inThailand.




















A view of Betong.
Betong is surrounded by low hills which means many windy roads to ride on.


















The main religion in Thailand is Buddhism, though in the south, there are plenty of Muslims as well.





























































The unqiue Thai influence on the buddhist temple architecture.

























In front of one of the landmarks of Betong.
The tallest postal box in Thailand. It's that red cylinder.
I read that it was so tall because they used it as a radio antennae as well.
Don't know what they are building behind the red postal box.



















The entrance to the village with Piyamit Tunnal.
The name of the village is called, "Friendship Village, Numbe 1". Sounds so communist doesn't it?




















The entrance to the Piyamit Tunnel.
























A ornamental bridge decorated with the twelve Chinese zodiac signs.
This reflects the strong Chinese-heritage amongst the inhabitants in this part of Thailand.

















There is a small eatery at the entrance of the Piyamit Tunnel.
This is its owner, Mr Xu. He is not just your average mom-and-pop shop owner.
If you carefully, the faded black-and-white photographs on the wall show a proud young communist soldier holding a machine gun.
That was Mr Xu in his younger days.



















With our guide, Mr Lin, at the entrance of the tunnel.
The communist-looking paintings above advertise that protective capabilities of the tunnels:
Even if it were raining bombs outside, you can still sing, read and sleep inside.























Me, inside the tunnel.


















The tunnel is long. 1.6 km.
It has a main road and several minor roads.
It took 50 men 3 months of digging by hand to create the tunnel.


















I Know What You Did Last Summer.
Scary?
Even if deep inside the tunnel, it is surprisingly cool and drafty.
The tunnel is very well designed and has air shafts to ventilate.


At first, Mr Lin gave me the impression that he is a very knowledgeable tour guide of the communist tunnel and communist war. Later, I learnt that he is 55 years old and he fought as a communist soldier for over 20 years and helped to dig this very tunnel!
So here, right in front of me, is an ex-communist soldier in flesh and blood.


















Three communist soldiers and two goon-doos (the extreme left and right ones).




How to Fight a Guerilla War

Some tips I learnt from Mr Lin:

1. Should you engage in a fire fight, on your third shot, you must flee.
Do not bother to check if you hit your target or hit the trees; You must run for your life because the government soldiers are zeroing on you and the artillery is on the way.


2. Never get caught.

You will be dead meat if the government soldiers catch you.
















Two communist soldiers fell to the Gurkhurs employed by the British to fight the communist guerillas.


3. You must keep moving.
Stay no longer than 100 days at each hideout.


4. Mine and booby trap your nest
















Now, there is a foot path which leads to the tunnel entrance and exit.
During the war, there was no foot path and the area is mined.


5. How to shoot down a helicopter
For years, Mr Lin and his other communist soldiers were not able to shoot down any government helicopters when these helicopters came to raid them.
Then one day, a Viet Con (Vietnamese Communist) advisor came and shared with them the Viet Con's experience in fighting the Americans. It is hard to shoot upwards against gravity.
Shoot down. Aim either at the pilot in the glass cockpit or the tail rotor which is needed to balance the helicopter.
Mr Lin proudly showed us a 1977 newspaper clipping which contained a brief one-liner that a government helicopter was shot down by communist soldiers.



5. Win the support of the villagers.

Unlike the Osama and Al Qaedia and other terrorists, the communist soldiers did not target civilians and were out to win their trustand support.
The communist soldiers depended on the villagers for food supplies. But the soldiers do not steal or plunter. They paid for things they bought from the villagers.
They do not disturb or create trouble to the villagers. Many villagers became their friends and warned them of impending arrival of government soldiers. Some villagers joined in the fight.



I asked Ah Lin if he ever thought of quitting during his 20 years of slugging it out as a communist solider. Without any hesitation, he replied with a No. Next to this steadfast warrior, I immediately felt so guilty as I have just changed job.


Well, being a communist soldier may not necessarily be all work and no fun.


















Look, Mr Lin got married when he was a communist soldier.
So did the earlier Mr Xu, whose wife was also a communist soldier.
It seems that even guerilla-communism is more successful than our SDU (Social Development Unit) in producing married couples.


Mr Xin advised that Betong is a pretty safe town. But warned us to avoid venturing out further north of Betong to the rest of Yala province, where the unrests are taking place.


The old communist is still a soldier at heart. 20 years past his fighting days, he still keeps track of tools of his past-trade. I was wearing the Singapore Armed Forces standard issue army boots as riding boots. He remarked that my boots that is very good as it is specially made to protect the wearer from land mine blast.
























Mr Xu, in his younger days, with his wife.






















Now, the forgotten soldier: Mr Lin.


The Piyamit Tunnel is really worth visiting and it alone is enough reason to go Betong.
Better go now and not delay further. It is not everyday that you can come face-to-face with a person who has fought a war and tell him his war stories (real). Go before Mr Lin and Mr Xu retire.



The Windy Road to Rose Garden


It's 4 pm. We still have time. What should we do Endless?


















Me and my bright idea:
Wow, this mountainous steep-looking road looks difficult to ride.
But it looks interesting also. Let's ride up! And see if we can get to the Rose Garden, another tourist attraction near the Piyamit Tunnel.


















The road is kind of windy...



















It's also kind of steep....




















And kind of high up....Riding into clouds.



















And the road is kind of narrow...
with almost zero run-off--the edge of tarmac is the slope down...
and there is no railing to guard you from falling off the steep edges...


















A wrong move and you go tumbling down the side...
This is Route 4017 on the Thai map.

P-Plater said, "Shouldn't the Thai authorities erect barrier by the edge of the road?"
Ge kiam (act smart) me replied, "Don't worry! No barrier means not enough people fall off the side to justify barrier. So safe, let's ride on."



















Our courage (or fool hardiness) was rewarded.
An earlier shower has passed. And left us with this beautiful scene of a rainbow hovering in the background. The air was also fresh and cool. Apart from the danger, it was really a nice ride.



















Steep, exposed mud wall...combined with earlier rain....leads to....


















Spilling mud and clay across the windy, steep and wet road.


But it's just a little mud, I thought. Surely, we aren't going to let a little mud in our path stop us, right?

Let's press on.



















More exposed mud wall and more steep edges down by only a hair's length away...


















More mud spills along way...but still, we pressed on.

















Hmmm...the mud might get a bit worse round this corner...


















Until no more tarmac surface left. All buried under wet mud and clay.



















And by then, we were in too deep and we were kind of trapped.


Even for the foolhardy and stubborn me, I began to realise it's getting too dangerous when
my ST1300 starts rear-wheel spinning below me at the slightest throttle opening.
The 300kg behemoth ST felt like toppling over and bathing in mud.
It was too much and we did a very very slow and deliberate U-turn back.




















Who says Blackbird and ST1300 can't do the Drakar Rally?


Too bad. We were probably only another 1-2 km away from the Rose Garden.

Now, we got to go back the way we came, only down hill this time.


















If the ride up was tricky, now ride down is worse with gravity pulling our bike down towards the sharp windy corners.



















The steep downward slope combined with a wet surface means that even going down at first gear was too fast!




















Sharp, wet and down hill corner coming up!


















Slowly.... slowly...., or over the edge you and your bike go.





















Making hair-pin turns.



We made the descend without falling off the hill.
At the foot hill, we passed by and visited a Hot Spring.



















The Hot Spring looks hot.























What if you fall into it?
How hot does it feel?

Feels like the same hot water you used to cook soft-boil eggs.
Some people actually dip their feet into such hot water.
I think they are really cooking their legs.


















Saw a strange sight.
A girl all by herself...standing close to the edge of the hot spring...sending SMS.

A new way to commit suicide?
Jump into the hot spring and cook herself. But first, send farewell SMS to boyfriend.




















Oh, no lah.
She is actually waiting for her eggs to cook.
There are hawkers on carts selling chicken eggs as well as quail eggs for you to cook.



Night Program

We returned to our hotel, have a shower and had dinner. This time, we were careful to avoid any dishes with chicken.


Then we went back to our hotel and asked about the massage service. Only 25 ringgit for 2 hours. Wah so cheap ah! And for 2 hours. I hope the massage masseur don't massage until hand drop off. BTW, this french word masseur is not pronounced (mer-su) or (ma-siu), but (m-air-sir).

We get to choose our masseur. The girls sit on a 3-level terrace and each has a number. We just indicate which number we want. I feel like we are not choosing massage service, but something a bit more sleazy.

Spectrum picked one girl. I was innocently, "I don't understand why they need to display themselves. How to tell whose massage skill is good?"

Spectrum replied, "Like that when you open your eyes, you wouldn't suddenly get scared to death and picked one masseur got a face like kena lang-gar (hit) by lorry."

When it is my turn to choose, I feel a bit paiseh. So I tell the coordinator, "Any one lah. But pick one with good skill. And can speak English, Chinese or Cantonese." The coordinator said, "OK. No problem." P-Plater also copied my choice.


All three of us went into a room. We took off our shirts and wore the given linen pants, lied down and waited for our masseurs to turn up.

First, one pang-teh (serve tea) old grandmother turned up with a plate of 3 tea for each of us.
Behind this grandmother, entered two female masseur. One went to attend PPlater. Her name is Ah Ming. The other went to Spectrum. Her name s Rune. Both looked ok. Not bad looking. I waited for my masseur to turn up, wondering how pretty she will look.

But no more young female masseur turned up. The pang-teh old grandmother is my masseur. Wah lau.

She is addressed Mummy, rather fitting her age. Mummy cannot speak any english. Nor chinese. Nor cantonese. I think next time I better choose myself.


The massage was really nice. Full body. Full two hours. Mummy really has soft tender hands. When I closed my eyes, I almost can forget I was massaged by a senior citizen.


Everything was nice except for some parts of our conversation. Only Ah Ming can speak english, and a little Chinese. So the other two masseurs spoke in Thai and Ah Ming translate for us.

My Mummy said something. Ah Ming laughed and told me, "Mummy asked me what is our room number?" I asked, "Why?"

She explained, "Mummy said tonight she want to do with me."

Oh, my goodness.

I tried to think of a good way to decline Mummy's generous invitation. "Cannot lah. Tonight I very tired lah."

Ah Ming translated to Mummy. Mummy replied back. "It's ok. Don't need you to do anything. Mummy do can already."

Oh, shit.

Near panicking. "Cannot lah. I also got headache. Not tonight."

We didn't dare tell them our room number.

All else. It was a very good, relaxing and refreshing massage. And it is so cheap. We retired to our room to set off early next morning.

Bailing Highway


With a long trip to hit Singapore within a day, we set off early at 7.30 am.



















Early in the morning, on our return trip, we cleared the same Malaysia custom.



Instead of going back the exact same route, we took the Bailing Highway route (Route 76 to Route 67).



















Riding into clouds. Route 76 is beautiful. It has views that rival that of Gerik Highway Route 76.



















Scenic cloud-capped mountains in the distance. Air is cool.



















There is a look out point where we stopped to take some pictures like the above.























How I took the previous picture.
Below the parapet is the fall off the mountain.

A malaysian tourist passing by, jokingly told me, "Don't be rash. Any problems, come down first."


















Route 76.


















I love the sight of cloud floating around the mountain top.



















Like long giant fingers running through the trees on the mountain.
How beautiful nature is. Too bad, Singapore don't have.



NorthSouth Highway Back


After the fun and beauty of Route 76 and 67, we entered the NorthSouth highway somewhere near Pinang.

Then, the rest of journey is just northsouth riding back. A couple of interesting things to comment on:

1. We successfully avoid two speed cameras.

The malaysian police with their speed cameras, like to hide below bridges, flyovers where this is shade from the sun.

Whenever we near such structures, we will slow down. This way, we saw two police in their acts some 100 km apart from one another.


2. I rode Spectrum's Blackbird

It was all highway riding. So my thoughts are:

- It is very comfortable to ride along northsouth compared to sports bike.
But doing at 110kmh for long stretches is not that comfortable. If you go to 150, you feel more comfortable.

- My ST1300, surprisingly feels as fast as the Blackbird when riding both bikes at their tallest gear along NorthSouth. Shows how sporty th ST1300 has evolved from its predecessor ST1100.





















We went to the Gelah Patah bike wash. A well worth 5 rinngit.




















Washed off all the clay and mud doing the climb up Route 4017.




















Back in Singapore.
Guess what? I was right. The pomelo came back to Singapore, once again, just like last year.
I carried the pomelo from Ipoh to Thailand and back to Singapore.
The pomelo rode further than many other Singaporean riders.


We covered a total distance of 1,700 km during this tour.
After this ride to Thailand, PPlater is P-Plater (probation plate) no more.


I highly recommend the ride to Betong. A 3-day trip over the weekend can go:
- You can set off at 7 am at Gelah Pateh. Go through the scenic Gerik Route 76 and reach Betong town by evening. Stay one night.
- Spend one day exploring Betong. Must visit the Piyamit Tunnel. Say hello to Mr Xu for us.
Tell him the three Singaporeans who rode there and it was raining and he talked to us a lot.
- Return trip, you can go ride through the Bailing Highway route like us.

So in one trip, you have touched the legendary Gerik Highway, visited Thailan, ride through lots of scenic routes and visited the Piyamit Tunnel.




Parting Shots

Following is a song that currently strikes a chord in my heart.

The Wang Li Hong song's tune has a restrained melanchonic, sorrowful, sad and lonely mood to it, reflecting some traditional chinese culture influence to it. Quite a masterful work of art.

Wang Li Hong - Luo Ye Gui Gen (王力宏-落叶归根)


舉頭望 無盡灰雲
那季節 叫做寂寞
背包 塞滿了家用
路就 這樣開始走
日不見 太陽的暖
夜不見 月光的藍
不得不 選擇 寒冷的開始
留下 只擁有 遺憾

命運 的 安排
遵守 自然 的邏輯
誰都 無法 揭謎底

喔~ 遠離家鄉 不甚唏噓 幻化成秋夜
而我卻像 落葉歸根 墜在你心間
幾分憂鬱 幾分孤單 都心甘情願
我的愛像 落葉歸根
家。。。唯獨在你身邊

舉頭望 無盡灰雲
那季節 叫做寂寞
背包 塞滿了家用
路就 這樣開始走
日不見 太陽的暖
夜不見 月光的藍
不得不 選擇 寒冷的開始
留下 只擁有 遺憾

但願陪你找回
所遺失的永恆
當我開口你卻沈默
只剩一場夢

我卻像 落葉歸根 墜在你心間
幾分憂鬱 幾分孤單 都心甘情願
我的愛像 落葉歸根
家。。。唯獨在你身邊


You can listen to the song by visiting.

http://oursongs.imeem.com/music/e0yCg51z/luo_ye_gui_genwang_li_hong/

Then create an imeem account and you can hear this piece of music.



















After the rain, there is always sun shine waiting for us.
Sometimes, there is even a rainbow.
And maybe, you may be rewarded with a pot of gold too.


















Sawatikup! At the Thai border.